THE THING ABOUT TEA

So here’s the thing: last Christmas I received a beautiful hand-stitched cushion which read ‘Tea is liquid wisdom.’  This got me thinking about the magical properties of my most adored hot beverage.  Think about it, the kettle is the first port of call when you get a visitor.  It breaks the ice, makes you feel like a splendid host/hostess by giving you an excuse to use your best mugs (or tea set if you are really keen) and sets everybody at ease by giving you something to do with your hands after the obligatory hug or handshake is out of the way.  Similarly it helps regulate temperature, providing warmth in the winter and quenching thirst in the summer (although I am certainly not one for this insane American tendency to serve it with ice.)  It is also an excellent comforter in times of need; a physical offering of support and understanding in stressful situations.  Not to mention all the health benefits, what with herbal teas being integral to any self-respecting detox campaign these days (not that I’d know.)  Tea is an essential part of my day and I wanted to dedicate a little time to describing my favourite source of this liquid wisdom.

I am currently sitting in a medium-sized room, in a medium-sized building which shares roughly the same symbolism for me as Buckingham Palace does for the Queen:  Betty’s Tea Rooms, Harrogate.  It is my spiritual home, my meal-time Mecca, my most adored haunt for a tea treat and it is my view that everybody should share in this particular cup of liquid wisdom.  For the tea obsessed, this hundred year old institution is so much more than a cafe/restaurant.  It is here that one can come and enjoy the sensation of being brewed in a unique blend of Victorian England meets Swiss hospitality, warmed by the ever present china-tinkling echoes of the past.  The upstairs houses a gloriously bright, Victorian-chic cafe, with flawless bay windows providing irresistible glimpses of the confectionary bar inside.  Meanwhile, the downstairs tearooms are a cosy cornucopia of thick carpets, marble tables and intriguing Swiss wooden artwork cladding the walls.  A magnificent collection of bespoke teapots, varying from porcelain houses to famous figures of the past (who all happen to conveniently possess striking enough noses to encompass a spout in the design,) tastefully line the walls, giving every attendee the impression of each cup served being, literally, steeped in history.

Whilst their tea room blend and English breakfast are some of the best brews I’ve tasted, the delicious delicacies served beside these pots of tea-time gold become a talking point long after the last croissant flake and scone crumb have left the pristine plates.  Their eggs benedict, traditional gruyere rostis and ceasar salad are of particular note but I have never known any dish to be remotely disappointing.  Evening meals are often accompanied by a pianist and a recommended ice cold glass of refreshing Swiss white wine, the perfect way to wind down after a busy business day or shopping jaunt in the charming local stores.  Their service is also impeccable.  Staff are dressed in slightly modernized Downton Abbey-esque maid uniforms and maintain an air of pleasant competence, seemingly dedicated to making your dining experience as relaxed and resplendent as possible.  Any Austen or Bronte buff would relish the opportunity to slip back in time and enjoy that which we had in common with our regency heroines, for it takes very little imagination to imagine Mrs.Bennett sipping from one of the delicate china tea services, or enjoying a freshly baked scone from the solid silver cake stands.

On your way out you are drawn into the warm confines of the gift shop.  This is the final cube of sugar in the perfect cup of tea.  More ‘maids’ await your pastry pleasure behind a worn wooden counter above glass cabinets housing a dream of fondant fancies, brownies, cupcakes, scones, cookies, macaroons… you get the idea.  However, the piece de resistance preens in the shop window in the form of a wedding cake display to make even the coldest matrimonial feet turn warm and toastie with mouthwatering anticipation.  No joke, I would probably tie the knot just for an excuse to dig into one of these culinary works of art!  The tins and boxes along the back wall bring us full circle to a veritable library of tea tisanes, tonics, leaves and infusions, presented in traditional caddies with Betty’s artwork adorning the facades.  

Stepping out under the black iron Victorian awning, I take a deep breath of crisp October air and snuggle further into my duffle coat, enjoying the residual Betty’s-infused warmth which will remain with me for the rest of the day.  Tea might not have actual magical properties, but every sip can provide health, warmth and comfort.  Sounds pretty magical to me...